I've been using Turpenoid a bit to thin my paint. What are the consequences--what could happen if the paint doesn't dry properly? How long will I take to notice the issues?
I've been using Turpenoid a bit to thin my paint. What are the consequences--what could happen if the paint doesn't dry properly? How long will I take to notice the issues?
elsiepaints,
Turpenoid is like OMS, odorless mineral spirits -- so you should have no problem with the drying of your paints.
Problems with oil paintings show themselves after a period of time that can't be exactly determined because they are affected by temperature and relative humidity and the changes in those values. If you have a stable inside environment in your studio and house, where the T/RH changes are somewhat controlled, it could take years for problems to surface.
Face it: oil paintings yellow and crack over time. Not much we can do about the yellowing, but we can paint on rigid supports or mounted fabric supports (explained in our last post to you) to minimize the chances of cracking.
The AMIEN Staff
ICA Art Conservation -- America's oldest regional art conservation center
What exactly is a "mounted fabric support"? What is the difference between that and a stretched canvas?
And, does what you're saying mean that turpenoid is just fine (or least, not really much worse than using regular turpentine) for thinning paint and applying it to a canvas?
By the way, these forums are just wonderful. Thanks for your prompt answers to all my questions!!
elsiepaints,
From a Search at this site, we found this under "mounted fabric supports":
"We think you could easily damage the painting, and will have to wait far longer than "dry to touch" if you want to mount the support on the MDF after you've finished. If the painting has any impasto in it, it could take a year to properly dry. We have seen many paintings in museums that were lined under pressure by now-discredited conservation techniques and in every case we could tell just by looking at the surfaces of a few thicker strokes of paint -- and these are paintings that are well-aged and presumably hard.
"You can use any acrylic dispersion gel medium as the mounting adhesive. If you dampen the linen and panel with water before mounting it you only need apply the gel to the panel surface. We use a large palette knife to apply the gel, and a soft rubber brayer to roll over the linen to smooth it and remove wrinkles and bubbles.
"6 mm thick MDF is not very thick, depending on the dimensions of the finished work. We think anything bigger than 60 cm on a side at that thickness should have perimeter bracing and cross-bracing on the back. You could use thicker MDF -- say, 2 cm thick, and might get away with no bracing up to about 90 cm on a side.
"Fabric that is not wrapped around the edges of a panel has a tendency to be damaged in handling unless the edges are protected by framing.
"If you want to protect the linen from the effects of SID, you ought to use a blocking size. The pH neutral PVA will not block SID. On the other hand, if you are using an oil ground, the ground itself will block SID, which is more of an issue with water-thinned grounds like the acrylic dispersion primer/grounds."
You can do your own Search to find out more about the procedure.
Turpenoid is much safer than regular gum turpentine.
We think these forums are pretty cool, too, thanks to all of our participants!
The AMIEN Staff
ICA Art Conservation -- America's oldest regional art conservation center